Front-Load, Top-Load, Stacked, Combo — All Of It
We work on everything from the basic Whirlpool top-loader your grandmother had to the $4,500 Miele W1 / T1 system in the laundry closet of a Bel Air guest house. Same diagnostic skill, different parts list. Some shops will tell you they “don’t service” certain brands. We service them all because that’s the job.
Brands we work on
- Premium / European: Miele, Bosch, Asko, LG SIGNATURE
- Mainstream: Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Kenmore, Frigidaire, Electrolux
- Stacked & combo: Whirlpool Combo, LG WashTower, Miele Little Giant, Bosch 500-series compact
- Vintage: Speed Queen, older Maytag dependable cares (yes, we still keep parts diagrams for these)
Washer Failures We Fix Daily
Won’t drain or won’t spin
Drain pump, drive belt, lid switch, or door interlock. On front-loaders this is also commonly the door boot or pressure switch. We carry pumps for the top six manufacturers on the truck.
Loud banging during spin (front-loaders especially)
Drum bearings or shock absorbers. This is the repair every Samsung and LG front-loader eventually needs around year six. We’ve done thousands. The honest part: on cheaper models, this repair sometimes doesn’t pencil out vs. replacement. We’ll tell you which side of the line your machine is on.
Leaking from the bottom
Drain pump seal, hoses, door boot (front-load), tub seal, or pressure switch line. We trace the leak to source — not “replace everything wet.”
Won’t fill / fills slowly
Inlet valves, supply line screens, low water pressure. Five-minute diagnosis if we know where to look.
Error codes / dead control panel
Main control board, user interface, or wiring harness. We carry the boards for the major manufacturers and can usually identify the failure from the error code before the truck arrives.
Stinks like a swamp (front-loaders)
Mostly biofilm in the boot and dispenser drawer. We clean it, and we’ll teach you the maintenance routine that keeps it from coming back. (Hint: it’s not “leave the door open” — it’s a quarterly hot wash with the right chemistry.)
Dryer Failures We Fix Daily
Won’t heat (gas)
Igniter, flame sensor, gas valve coils, thermostats. Igniters are the #1 dryer failure — we keep them on the truck for every common model.
Won’t heat (electric)
Heating element, thermostats, thermal fuse. Similarly common, similarly stocked.
Drum won’t turn / belt squealing
Drive belt, idler pulley, drum rollers, motor. We pull the cabinet, replace what’s worn, and put it back together better than we found it.
Takes forever to dry
This is usually the vent — not the dryer. We check airflow, lint buildup, and vent length. If the dryer itself is fine, we’ll tell you where the airflow problem actually is. (We can also recommend a vent-cleaning specialist if it’s a long roof run.)
Loud thumping
Drum rollers, idler bearing, or — rarely — drum seal. Diagnosable by the type of noise.
Stops mid-cycle
Cycling thermostat, motor overheating, vent restriction. We isolate which.
Gas Vs. Electric — Important
We’re licensed for gas appliance work. A lot of “appliance repair” outfits aren’t, and they’ll either refuse the job or — worse — do it anyway and leave you a slow leak. If your dryer is gas, ask any tech you call whether they’re certified. With us, the answer is yes, and we have the paperwork to back it up.
What It Costs
- Pump or igniter replacement: $200–$300 typical
- Drum bearing repair on a front-loader: $400–$650 (genuinely an all-day job)
- Control board: $300–$500 depending on the brand
- Belt + roller kit on a dryer: $200–$280
- Diagnostic-only: $89 (waived with repair)
Like with refrigerators — if the repair tops 60% of replacement, we’ll say so. Particularly for cheaper top-loaders past year 8, replacement is sometimes the right call.
Same-Day Where Possible
We dispatch out of Van Nuys, so most laundry calls in the SFV get a same-day window. If you’re in the inner Valley (Sherman Oaks, Studio City, Encino, North Hollywood, Reseda, Tarzana, Valley Glen) we usually have a tech to your door in 3-5 hours.